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You will need an amplifier to power your subwoofer in some fashion or another. There are two ways to do it. You can buy a subwoofer or a loaded enclosure and use an external amplifier to give the subwoofer the power it needs to perform. The other option is to choose a powered subwoofer enclosure where the amplifier is built-in to the subwoofer enclosure. Either way, you will still need an amplifier.
Most car subwoofer require a box, or an enclosure to work properly. The subwoofer box, or enclosure, provides the subwoofer with a fixed amount of air space to optimize performance. Virtually all of the car subwoofer we sell require an enclosure. Many marine subwoofers are designed for free-air or infinite baffle applications and do not require an enclosure. You can purchase a loaded subwoofer enclosure to take the guess-work out of the box building process and ensure that you get a box that is perfectly designed and engineered for that specific subwoofer(s).
This is nearly impossible to answer, very subjective, and the prices differ quite drastically. However, the best subwoofer for your call will depend on the amplifier that you are using. If you have 300 watts RMS, a 600 watt RMS subwoofer is not the best subwoofer for you. If you truly have 1000 watts RMS, the best subwoofer for you will be a higher end model. Think of your subwoofer like a trailer and the amplifier as your truck. You don't want to try to pull a semi trailer with a 4 cylinder engine. At the same time, a 6.2L diesel engine isn't going to be ideal in a Honda Civic. The best subwoofer is one that meets your budget and that you can properly power with true, actual output, not 1000 watts because the box says it's 1000 watts.
A sealed enclosure is as it name implies, sealed. A ported, vented, or slotted enclosure has an opening that allows the subwoofer enclosure to push air out of the box. Sealed enclosures are usually tighter and punchier while ported enclosures tend to be louder and boomier. The recommended enclosure volume for a ported enclosure is typically larger than the recommended air volume for a sealed enclosure. Vented enclousres allow you to tune the port to specific frequencies and there are a ton of variable with regards to the port diameter, length, etc.
Low profile subwoofers are typically not quite as good as their full-size counter parts, but there are some exceptions to the rule. It used to be that thin-woofers sounded thin. The engineers have since found ways to make them significantly better so that you get full sized output from a low-profile subwoofer, but in general, the full size version will just sound better, all other things being equal. Some of the low-profile subwoofers that we really like include the JL Audio TW3, Kicker CompRT, Kicker L7T, Rockford Fosgate T1S, Rockford Fosgate R2S, and the Kenwood eXcelon 10" low profile. Most of the other shallow subwoofers sound shallow. We recommend the models we just listed if you are tight on space.
Double check your amplifier first! You want to make sure your amplifier is 1 ohm stable before wiring your subwoofers to a 1 ohm load. Many JL Audio, some Rockford Fosgate, and some Kicker amplifiers are not 1 ohm stable. You risk over-heating your amplifier if you don't double-check. We like to wire most subwoofers to a 2 ohm load. Yes, you can get more power from the amplifier at 1 ohm, but the amplifier is going to pull twice the current, run hotter, and probably not sound as good. If you are all about power and your amplifier is 1 ohm stable, go ahead and wire you amplifier to a 1 ohm load. Most of the Rockford Fosgate loaded enclosures are wired to a 1 ohm load as well. It's not that 1 ohm is bad, it's just that 2 ohms is just easier on the amplifier. If you have the budget to properly power the subwoofers at 2 ohms instead of 1 ohm, get the voice coils that allow you to wire to a 2 ohm load.
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